Trad class

I’d wanted to get into trad climbing from the beginning and planned to take the trad class in the fall/winter. Finn and I had to complete nearly every club climb and training to qualify: the beginner class (and volunteering for it), anchor building, sport lead, and finally the trad class as a capstone. Along the way, we also did a Wichita Mountains outing, I climbed with a guide on Ben Nevis, and Aleksei and I spent a day at Reimers Ranch.

Despite all that, I still doubted my ability to lead trad. Although I felt much more comfortable on real rock, my gym grades had plateaued, and leading—especially trad—felt intimidating. A particularly bad gym fall that scraped my shin didn’t help my confidence.

Those worries turned out to be overblown. Our instructors—Kevin, JP, LeRoy, and Parker—were excellent. On the first day, we practiced placements, anchors, tying in, and simulated multipitches. Each student worked closely with an instructor; Kevin was mine. I led easy terrain, built anchors, and belayed Kevin up using my ATC in guide mode. It was a great way to practice efficient gear placement, rack management, anchor building, and communication.

Day two was my first trad lead. We hiked to Zoo Wall in the Narrows. Will and JP climbed Beef Steak on Meat Slab for Will’s first lead, which I respected since minimizing movement is smart on a first trad lead. Finn and Parker went for a multipitch, while Kevin and I climbed Unfinished Piece.

The first section and anchor were straightforward, with only one minor placement correction. The real challenge came above the anchor, where a roof with a great cam placement forced a hard decision. I left the cam in for safety, even though it blocked a hand jam, and struggled to move up. I was tired, couldn’t find good holds, and was clearly frustrated.

Kevin eventually suggested moving left. The handhold was solid, but the feet were poor, and the potential pendulum fall was terrifying. After finding a tiny ledge to rest, I placed a mediocre piece just for peace of mind. My legs were shaking and my arms were pumped, but once that piece was in, I knew I could finish. I pushed through the final, exposed moves, built the anchor, and belayed Kevin up with Parker’s help. Meanwhile, Abe and Finn both took falls on Flying Nun.

Back on the ground, I was eager to climb more. The cold rock was affecting everyone, so Kevin suggested I lead the dihedral instead of Crazy Alice. I struggled at the roof after placing and extending a piece that I then had to move past. Exhausted, I briefly retreated to rest using opposing pressure, shaking out for a long time. Eventually, with better footwork and fresh energy, I cruised through.

Overall, the experience was an incredible capstone to a long journey—and the start of a much longer one. I was glad to be done, but I am even more excited to get back out with everyone! Thanks to everyone for the training, support, and great memories. I hope to give back as much as I received.